Two things in life give me
instant gratification: perfume and wine gums. But while one rots my teeth and
piles on the pounds, the other - no matter how bad my hair day - makes me feel
beautiful.
I'm in good company. Cleopatra was known for
her love of perfume, liberally applying lotus and rose oil to her upper lip.
'We know she made her own perfumes and would
certainly have worn it to increase her powers of seduction,' says Mandy Aftel,
perfume historian and author of Fragrant: The Secret Life Of Scent.
'She didn't solely rely on her looks.
Cleopatra believed that smelling divine was the real key to a man's heart,' she
says.
And according to scientists, Cleopatra was
right. Perfume really can make us more attractive.
'Humans are mammals and though we're highly
evolved, we have inherited mating mechanisms from the animal kingdom. One of
the factors that influences our partner choice is smell,' says Tim Jacob,
emeritus professor at the School of Biosciences at Cardiff University.
We react in an involuntary way to smell
because our noses are connected to synapses in the unconscious part of the
brain (the piriform cortex), which governs the subconscious mind.
The power of the subconscious
mind is extremely strong. If we like someone's smell, they become instantly
more attractive to us, and vice versa,' says Roja Dove, master perfumer at
Urban Retreat Perfumerie in Harrods.
Small
wonder, then, that perfumers spend vast amounts of time and money creating
fragrances that evoke positive feelings of satisfaction and sensuality.
And there
are ingredients with a proven track record of evoking other strong subconscious
reactions.
'Vanilla, an ingredient in many perfumes, is a
smell that's strongly
associated with pleasure,' says Professor Jacob.
'Just think of confectionery and the feelings of
happiness that go with traditional childhood treats.'
Lavender, another common ingredient in perfume,
has been shown to calm and soothe the mind, while citrus smells evoke images of
health and cleanliness.
So powerful is our unconscious reaction to smell
that perfumers claim wearing certain scents will make a woman seem younger,
more athletic or even slimmer than she actually is.
So what are the perfect perfumes to make others
think we're slim, sexy, sporty or sophisticated?
Harrods' Roja Dove picks his favourites . . .
FLIRT WITH FLORALS
Vanilla, an ingredient in many perfumes,
is a smell that's strongly associated with pleasure
Floral perfumes can take years off a woman, as
long as the smell is subtle.
However, if it's cloying or overpowering, the
effect can be ageing.
Anything that overwhelms our senses can begin to
smell stale and musty, and these are scents that the unconscious mind
associates with age.
Vivacious yet subtle scents of peony, lily of
the valley and orange blossom will evoke images of spring and youth. Perfumes
such as Balenciaga's Florabotanica (£56, Debenhams) or Love Story from Chloe
(£65, Debenhams) use floral notes that create an impression of youthful energy.
They're flirty and fun, like actresses Helen
Mirren and Felicity Kendal.
RAMP UP YOUR SEX APPEAL
Vanilla is an aphrodisiac that enhances
sensations of pleasure across the central nervous system.
Therefore, it's no wonder that so many perfumes
use vanilla as a base note.
Applied to the nape of the neck
or dabbed lightly behind the ears, the smell is intensely seductive. For
serious sex appeal you need a slightly heavier scent, one which comes from the
perfume group we call the Orientals.
These are
perfumes based on vanilla with touches of sandalwood, patchouli or coumarin,
which is found in conker beans.
The
fragrances are sensual - they speak of arousal and passion. Think rich,
luxuriant velvet as opposed to bright, clean cotton.
Try
Guerlain's Shalimar, (£62, John Lewis), L'Ambre Des Merveilles by Hermes (£82,
House of Fraser) or Armani's Si (£64, John Lewis) for a date night your husband
won't forget.
WAFT AWAY THE YEARS
Perfumes
with a bright, breezy, citrus scent evoke images of health, youth and the
outdoors.
Lemon has
long been associated with a fresh, youthful vivacity, so perfumes with citrus
notes combined with florals will have associations of vigour and energy.
Opt for
perfumes such as Tom Ford's Private Blend White Suede (£142, John Lewis) or
Givenchy's Dahlia Noir (£63, Boots) to knock the pounds off in an instant.
You may
never run a marathon, but you'll smell like someone who does (in a good way).
SMART AND SASSY AROMAS
If you've
got a tricky meeting or job interview, you'll want to appear calm, competent
and chic.
The fragrance
equivalent of an exquisitely tailored Chanel suit is a perfume from the Chypre
family.
This
group of fragrances is blended with uncompromising clarity, made up primarily
of woody scents: juniper, cedarwood and bergamot and citrus top notes.
Cartier's Eau De Cartier (£46,
House of Fraser) or Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique (£60, John Lewis) are
perfect examples of understated statement perfumes.
If a
perfume can make you appear to be the sort of person who reads Proust at
bedtime rather than Hello! magazine, it's going to be one of these.
GIVE YOURSELF A MOOD LIFT
Clean,
energising citrus notes with hints of healing, soothing jasmine and lavender
work best to dispel gloom, spread joy and your spirits.
These
scents have been shown to have anti-depressant and rebalancing effects.
It really
is true that a little lavender essence sprinkled on your pillow at night will
help you sleep peacefully, leaving you calm and re-energised for the day ahead.
Try
Clarins' Eau Dynamisante (£39, John Lewis), Fendi's L'Aquarossa (£64, Harrods)
or, for a really lovely lavender feel, Marc Jacobs' Daisy Eau So Fresh (£72,
Debenhams).
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